之後女朋友送我了 Audio Technica ABC7B 抗噪耳機，因為我每次搭 AA 的飛機都會抱怨噪音很大，我後來發現 Airbus 的飛機比起 Boeing 的飛機安靜多了，但是 AA 全部都是 Boeing 飛機。雖然這隻耳機的主要特點是抗噪，不過我認為音樂表現是目前這三隻耳機裏面最好的。缺點大概就是人在腦中唱歌還是不太習慣。
這張圖出自 Big Training Gains in 3 Days，用圖表的方式表示了 PRE、轉速、間歇訓練的長度、反覆次數、休息時間，一目了然，印出來貼在龍頭上直接可以上訓練台操課。
上面這張圖一次呈現了三種在 TCTP 裏面的操課，Climb Strong All Day 裏面的 Hill Accelerations 更是連我新買的第二版也沒有，更糟糕的是書裡連一張像這樣的圖都沒有！很明顯的，書是給 self-coach 的人看的，他有提供幾種為期十一周的基本課表，但是詳細的操課你要自己設計。雜誌專欄是給一般人看的，我相信操課的時間和次數應該是大多數人可以承受的，一般人也需要明白易懂的圖表。要更偷懶的完整課表，去買他們家出的 DVD 最快，照著電視做就對了。
這張圖是信義路敦化南路路口，可惜應該先減 EV 再用 LR Brush 做 HDR，過曝的天空就算降 EV 還是灰色的，一開始失去的藍天就算用 raw 都是找不回來的。但如果先降低 EV 拍來保留天空的色彩，再用 Brush 把暗部的建築物打亮，整體就會比較接近人眼視覺。下面這張信義路捷運路面施工就是這樣做的。
畫質優、大光圈不在話下，唯一的缺點只有近距離人像對焦沒那麼準，但這問題應該在機身不在鏡頭上。
以前用 LR 主要的問題都是植物的飽滿綠色會變成螢光綠，這次發現在 Camera Calibration 把綠色的 Hue +30 就可以修正這個問題。
Hue=0
Hue=30
我現在已經非常依賴 LR 優異的銳利化來補救那些手振的瞬間，尤其那個好用的 mask。下面這張照片用 mask 47, radius 3.0, detail 0。不過看起來我手振的程度超過3個像素大小...
Sharpening = 0
Sharpening = 150
高 ISO 的照片多拍了之後，也發現只要夠亮都不是問題，頂多是損失一些動態範圍和銳利度，但是亮度不足的時候就會出現嚴重的噪點和暗部雜色，這時候 LR 的降噪在保留細節和抹除噪點取得的平衡，就遠比機身內建的好用太多。
Body JPEG
LR
很讓我討厭的暗部發紫，也發現可以用 Camera Calibration 裏面的 shadow tone 來獲得修正，搭配 Basic 裏面的整體亮度、極暗部曲線調整，就可以獲得和機身直出差不多的暗部表現。
最新的心得是拍 raw 可以獲得要不要套用鏡頭修正的彈性，這顆 30mm 的變形主要都在非常邊緣的部份，因此大多數時候都可以不需要修正，來獲得畫面中央最高的銳利度。但是當畫面邊緣有建築物的時候，修正掉擾人的變形我就覺得比較重要了。
Correction = Off
Correction = On
慢慢的把 LR 用順手，讓我對這台機器的抱怨愈來愈少，動態範圍不足、高 ISO 機身處理差、機身過度的全域性銳利化，都能用 LR 獲得大幅度的改善，而顏色漂亮這個強項，也開始學會用 Camera calibration 拉回來，像是處理 raw 太慢也能用現在超高速 (95MB/sec) 的記憶卡大幅度彌補。
真的要抱怨的，大概剩下 button to shot 的延遲有點長，讓我會錯失一些鏡頭瞬間，另外就是沒有原廠離機閃。
First, it is a true 3-way dipole speaker to be used in a normal living room. From his analysis, normal living room has a RT60 about 500ms, Schroeder frequency is about 150Hz and the fundamental mode is about 20Hz.
The 20Hz fundamental mode is good since a dipole will not radiate energy in such low frequency thus we don't need to worry that non-audible low frequencies will shake the house. I like the fact that he uses two closed packed back-to-back woofer because the front and back sides of a cone radiate differently. Such arrangement can still be regard as a single point source as long as the distance between the two woofers is much smaller than the operating wavelength.
In terms of room modes, the longitudinal modes are not a problem if you sit at the optimal position. Such mode can be regard as the multiple reflections between the front and back walls. When you sit at the optimal position, all the front/back reflections form a dipole will cancel. The two speaker setup also keeps the beauty of symmetry in the room thus only even order modes between the side walls may be excited. Let's say the fundamental frequency of the mode between the side walls is 25Hz, this one will not be excited. The modes that will show up are 50Hz and 100Hz. The quality factor for these higher order modes are usually smaller, which means the peaks and dips are much smoother than the fundamental one. Moreover, the dipole excited the sidewall weakly thus such mode is less a problem.
In terms of mid-range and tweeter. Dipole simply shines. The dipole acoustic radiation pattern has nulls on the two sides. We can toe-in the speakers such that the null is pointed toward the specular points on the side walls. In such arrangement, no reflection will reach our ears! In reality we cannot toe-in that much otherwise the left and right channels will cross over in front of the listening position but the flavor of this technique is kept. Another smart move is to use tweeters. There will be a comb filter effect between the cone and the magnet of the mid-range driver. The null frequency will be around 1.7kHz assuming they are 5cm apart. The Orion is cross-over to the tweeter at 1.5kHz thus the comb filter of the mid-range is not a problem. The two back-to-back tweeters with 5cm part also keep the true dipole radiation pattern till 3.4kHz. I believe anything above will be direct path dominant in a normal living room.
The three-way dipole seems to be a really good design. However, the dipole frequency response is not a flat one and equalization is a must. It is also a less efficient design. It will require a lot of effort to tune them correctly. I believe buying the build plan will be a smarter move than start from scratch.
